Les Echos : The New Youth of Alcohol-Free Drinks

Yet the idea is hardly new. As early as the 1970s and 1980s, a first wave of alternative aperitifs appeared and enjoyed modest success: Canada Dry, followed by Panach or Buckler on the beer side, the aniseed-flavoured Pacific or the unforgettable Mister Cocktail on the aperitif side.

But very often, sipping these beverages felt more like a constraint, or even a punishment, than a pleasure, as the taste didn't quite live up to expectations. Worse, these drinks were quickly labelled as outdated by those who tried them.

"In the years 2000 to 2010, it was a rather ageing market, in decline, which suffered from a poor image among consumers," summarises Antoine Susini, Marketing Director of Heineken France. That was before it found a new lease of life, initially through beers, and developed a more desirable and festive image. Among the pioneers of this revival is Seedlip, founded by Englishman Ben Branson in 2015, whose aromatic blend of allspice, cardamom, lemon peel and zest is now enjoyed in bars around the world.

A new approach to mindful drinking

In the meantime, attitudes have shifted. Health and wellbeing are no longer simply matters of public policy; they have become central to consumers' priorities, particularly among millennials, who have embraced wellness as a way of life.

"Today, we pay more and more attention to what we consume: we favour organic, local products... Until now, the phenomenon was less visible in beverages. Now, people are starting to pay as much attention to their glass as to their plate," observes Marion Lebeau, co-founder of the Osco aperitif. The idea came to her during pregnancy, when she found the available options unsuitable: too sweet, artificial and lacking a festive spirit.

While France continues to embrace its long-standing drinking traditions, a new vocabulary has emerged from Great Britain to describe evolving habits: mindful drinking, which favours appreciation and moderation, and the growing preference for sophisticated alternatives that offer the pleasure of a refined drinking experience.

"Since the 1960s, there has been a structural decline in alcohol consumption, especially among young people. People are drinking less but better quality drinks," says Benoît Heilbrunn, professor of marketing at ESCP. The phenomenon of moderation is also part of the growing sacredness of the aperitif, reinforced by the various confinements.

"The cocktail hour is becoming longer and longer, as meals are becoming less structured and the border with dinner is becoming less and less clear. And to make this moment last, we reduce the degree of alcohol", continues the specialist, who advances a deeper reason for this success, "a strategy of guiltlessness, in a culture influenced by the Judeo-Christian history".

A clever parade, because the technical development of these beverages is a real puzzle that relies on clever technical innovations. Some make the alcohol disappear, like Heineken, which heats its beer at a low temperature after brewing, to evaporate it while preserving the flavors.

"We have invested 6 million euros in 2019 in our Alsatian brewery to install 0.0 technology on a dedicated line. Thus, all of our 0% alcohol references are now 'made in France,"

" Antoine Susini says. Lyre's relies on " an avant-garde scientific method", says its founder. The process consists of isolating three molecules, essences, extracts and distillate, then mixing them in water-based ethanol, before adding natural flavors.

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"Some flavors are particularly complicated to recreate, the smoky side of whiskey for example. Another difficulty is the texture: the slightly viscous sensation on the palate. We worked a lot on this. The idea, again, is to have the sensation of drinking alcohol. His creations have been successful with three profiles: seniors and those forbidden to drink alcohol for medical or religious reasons, young people, concerned with well-being, and the generation of forty-somethings, who try to moderate their consumption.

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